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21 codes documented for Maytag washers
The central control unit (CCU) has detected an EEPROM disconnect or memory corruption. The washer cannot execute its stored cycle programs. Power cycle the washer by unplugging for 60 seconds. If F01 returns, the main electronic control board requires replacement.
The motor control unit (MCU) has experienced an internal fault or is not communicating with the central control unit. The washer drum will not spin or agitate. Check the wiring harness between the MCU and CCU. If connections are secure, the MCU board requires replacement.
The washer did not detect water entering the tub within 6 minutes. Verify that both hot and cold water supply faucets are fully open, check inlet hoses for kinks, and inspect the inlet valve screens for sediment buildup. If the water supply is confirmed adequate, the water inlet valve assembly has failed and requires replacement.
The washer is unable to drain water within the expected time. The drain pump filter may be clogged with lint, coins, or small objects. Check the drain hose for kinks and ensure the standpipe is not blocked. Clean the drain pump filter (located behind the lower access panel on front-load models). If the pump runs but water does not drain, the pump impeller may be damaged.
The door lock mechanism has failed after 6 consecutive attempts to lock. The washer will not start a cycle if the door cannot be confirmed locked. Inspect the door latch assembly for obstructions or damage. The door lock actuator motor or the door lock switch may have failed and require replacement.
The washer heating element is not functioning. The water temperature will not reach the selected setting, which can affect cleaning performance on hot-water cycles. The heating element has an open circuit or the temperature control circuitry on the main board has failed.
The water temperature sensor (NTC thermistor) is reading out of range. The washer cannot verify water temperature, and heated cycles may be disabled. The thermistor is typically located on or near the outer tub. Check the wiring connections first, then replace the sensor if readings are abnormal.
The drive motor tachometer (speed sensor) is not providing a valid signal. The motor control unit cannot regulate drum speed, which may cause the washer to stop mid-cycle or fail to spin. The tachometer is mounted on the drive motor. Inspect its wiring and connections. If damaged, the tachometer or entire motor assembly may need replacement.
The door switch is reporting an inconsistent state — the switch signal does not match the expected door position. This differs from F22 in that the switch itself is faulty rather than the lock mechanism. The door switch assembly requires replacement.
The washer has detected an overflow condition — water level has exceeded the maximum safe level. The drain pump will activate automatically. This can be caused by a stuck-open water inlet valve or a faulty pressure switch. Disconnect power immediately and inspect the inlet valve. Do not restart until the cause is identified.
The central control unit (CCU) and motor control unit (MCU) have lost serial communication. The washer cannot operate without this communication link. Check the wiring harness between the two boards for loose connections or damage. If wiring is intact, one or both control boards may need replacement.
The door lock mechanism was unable to unlock after the cycle completed. The door remains locked with laundry inside. Do not force the door open. Power cycle the washer and wait 5 minutes. If the door does not release, the door lock actuator has failed and requires replacement by a technician.
The detergent dispenser motor or the dispenser switching mechanism has failed. Detergent, bleach, or fabric softener may not be dispensed at the correct time during the wash cycle. Check for clogged dispenser compartments first. If the motor does not actuate, the dispenser assembly requires replacement.
The motor control unit (MCU) temperature has exceeded safe operating limits. The washer will shut down to prevent damage. This can be caused by overloading the washer, a seized drum bearing, or poor ventilation around the MCU. Allow the unit to cool, then restart. If the code recurs, the MCU or drive motor may need service.
The drain pump drive circuit on the main control board has failed. The pump motor is not receiving the correct voltage signal. This is distinct from a clogged drain (F21) — in this case, the pump itself cannot be energized. The main electronic control board typically requires replacement.
Items were detected in the drum when the Clean Washer cycle was started. The Clean Washer cycle uses high-temperature water and cleaning agents that can damage clothing. Remove all items from the drum and restart the Clean Washer cycle with an empty tub.
The washer has detected excessive suds in the drum. Too much detergent or the wrong type of detergent (non-HE) was used. The washer will extend the rinse cycle and may pause to allow suds to dissipate. Use only HE (High Efficiency) detergent and reduce the amount used. This is the most common Maytag washer error and is usually user-correctable.
The washer is taking too long to fill with water. Similar to F20 but triggered at a different threshold. Verify that both water supply faucets are fully open and that water pressure is adequate (minimum 20 psi). Check inlet hose screens for sediment. On top-load models, ensure the lid is fully closed as some models pause fill when the lid is open.
The top-load washer lid is not fully closed or the lid lock switch is not engaged. The washer will not start or will pause mid-cycle. Close the lid firmly until you hear it click. If the lid is closed but the error persists, the lid lock switch mechanism may be faulty and require replacement.
The washer motor is drawing excessive current, indicating the drum is overloaded with laundry. The motor protection circuit has engaged to prevent damage. Remove some items to reduce the load size and restart the cycle. Consistently overloading the washer can damage the drive motor, suspension springs, and bearings over time.
The door or lid lock mechanism has encountered a general lock or unlock failure. The washer detects a mismatch between the commanded lock state and the actual switch feedback. Inspect the door latch for obstructions. On front-load models, check that the door boot seal is not preventing full closure. The door lock assembly or wiring harness may require replacement.
7 codes documented for Maytag dryers
The main electronic control board has detected an internal fault or EEPROM error. The dryer will not start or respond to controls. Power cycle the dryer by unplugging for 60 seconds. If F01 returns, the main control board requires replacement. This is a common failure on Maytag dryers after power surges.
A button on the user interface control panel is stuck or shorted. The dryer may not accept input or may behave erratically. Try pressing each button firmly to free any that may be stuck. If the error persists after a power cycle, the user interface control board or keypad membrane requires replacement.
The dryer has detected restricted exhaust airflow. Drying times will be significantly longer and the dryer may overheat. Clean the lint screen thoroughly, inspect and clean the entire exhaust vent duct from the dryer to the exterior wall cap, and remove any lint buildup. Crushed or kinked vent hoses are a common cause. Restricted airflow is a fire hazard and must be addressed immediately.
The dryer is not receiving the required 240V power supply (electric models). One leg of the 240V circuit may be dead, resulting in the dryer running on only 120V. The dryer drum will tumble but the heating element will not energize. Check the home circuit breaker — both breakers in the double-pole must be on. Verify the power cord connections at the terminal block and test the wall outlet voltage.
The exhaust temperature thermistor has an open circuit. The dryer cannot monitor exhaust temperature accurately, which may cause it to overheat or fail to heat. The thermistor is located in the exhaust duct inside the dryer. Check wiring connections first, then replace the thermistor if it reads open on a multimeter.
The exhaust temperature thermistor is shorted, reading near-zero resistance. The dryer may interpret this as an extremely low temperature and run the heater continuously, creating an overheat risk. Disconnect the dryer and replace the thermistor immediately to prevent potential fire hazard.
A power interruption occurred during a drying cycle. The dryer has lost its cycle progress. Press Start to resume the cycle or select a new cycle and press Start. If PF appears repeatedly without a known power outage, check for loose power cord connections, a faulty wall outlet, or an intermittent circuit breaker.
7 codes documented for Maytag refrigerators
The refrigerator has detected a power outage and is alerting you that temperatures may have risen above safe levels during the outage. Press any button to clear the alert and reset the display. Check food items for spoilage if the outage lasted more than 4 hours. The refrigerator will resume normal cooling automatically.
The automatic defrost system has failed. Ice will accumulate on the evaporator coils, gradually blocking airflow and causing both the freezer and refrigerator compartments to warm. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat (bimetal), or defrost control board timer has failed. This is the most common cause of a Maytag refrigerator that gradually stops cooling.
The freezer evaporator fan motor is not operating. Without this fan, cold air cannot circulate from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. Both compartments will warm. The fan motor may have failed, or ice from a defrost system issue may be blocking the fan blade. Check for ice obstruction first, then test the fan motor.
The main control board has lost communication with the display board or other electronic components. The refrigerator may display incorrect temperatures or become unresponsive to control inputs. Check the wiring harness connections between the main board (usually at the back bottom) and the display board. If connections are secure, one of the boards requires replacement.
A temperature sensor (NTC thermistor) is reading outside its expected range. The compressor may run continuously or fail to cycle properly, leading to freezing in the refrigerator compartment or inadequate cooling. Maytag refrigerators typically have sensors in both compartments. Identify which sensor is faulty using a multimeter and replace it.
The main electronic control board has detected an internal processor or memory fault. The refrigerator may stop cooling or behave erratically. Power cycle the refrigerator by unplugging for 5 minutes. If the code returns, the main control board requires replacement. Ensure the replacement board firmware matches your model.
A general communication failure between the main control board and one or more subsystem boards. This can affect temperature regulation, ice maker operation, and display functions. Re-seat all wiring harness connectors on the main board. If the error persists, the main control board or the affected subsystem board requires replacement.
13 codes documented for Maytag dishwashers
The dishwasher water has not reached the required temperature within the allotted time. The heating element or NTC thermistor may have failed. Check that the home water heater is set to at least 120 degrees F and that the hot water supply line is connected to the dishwasher. If the incoming water temperature is adequate, the heating element requires testing and likely replacement.
The water temperature dropped below the minimum threshold during the active wash phase. This can result in poor cleaning performance and incomplete sanitization. Run hot water at the kitchen sink before starting the dishwasher to prime the hot water line. If the error recurs, the heating element or its control circuit has failed.
The dishwasher cannot drain water from the tub. Clean the filter assembly at the bottom of the tub, check the drain hose for kinks, and inspect the garbage disposal connection (remove the knockout plug if newly installed). If the drain pump runs but water remains, the pump impeller may be damaged or the check valve is stuck.
The dishwasher is not filling with enough water. Check that the water supply valve under the sink is fully open, inspect the inlet hose for kinks, and clean the inlet valve screen filter. Household water pressure must be at least 20 psi. If the supply is adequate, the water inlet valve solenoid has failed.
The drying system (heated dry element or fan-assisted drying) is not functioning properly. Dishes will remain wet after the cycle completes. The drying fan motor, heating element, or the vent actuator may have failed. Check the vent opening mechanism first, as a stuck vent door is a common and simple fix.
The main electronic control board has detected an internal fault. The dishwasher may not respond to commands or may stop mid-cycle. Power cycle the dishwasher by turning off the circuit breaker for 60 seconds. If F1E1 returns, the main electronic control board requires replacement.
The main control board and the user interface board have lost communication. The control panel may be unresponsive or display incorrect information. Check the ribbon cable or wiring harness connecting the two boards. If connections are secure, one of the boards requires replacement.
The water temperature sensor (thermistor) is reading outside its expected range. The dishwasher cannot properly regulate water temperature for wash and sanitize cycles. The thermistor is located inside the tub, typically near the sump area. Test with a multimeter and replace if readings are abnormal.
The wash pump motor is not operating. The dishwasher fills with water but does not spray. A foreign object (glass shard, broken plastic, food debris) may be jamming the impeller. Check for obstructions in the pump area. If the motor hums but does not turn, the pump motor assembly requires replacement.
The water inlet valve is not operating correctly. The valve may be stuck open (causing overfill) or stuck closed (no water). Check the water supply for adequate pressure and inspect the valve screen for debris. If the valve does not open or close on command from the control board, the inlet valve assembly requires replacement.
The dishwasher has not detected any water entering the tub. Verify the water supply valve under the sink is fully open, check for kinked supply hoses, and clean the inlet screen filter. If the water supply is confirmed and the error persists, the water inlet valve or the water level pressure switch has failed.
A software error or diverter disc motor fault has been detected. The diverter directs water to the upper and lower spray arms. Power cycle the dishwasher by turning off the breaker for 60 seconds. If the error returns, the diverter motor or the main control board firmware may need service or replacement.
The dishwasher is not detecting sufficient water in the tub to begin the wash cycle. This is similar to F8E4 but occurs as a persistent low-water condition. Check the water supply valve, inlet hose, and screen filter. Run water at the kitchen sink to confirm adequate water pressure. The float switch or pressure sensor may also be faulty.
10 codes documented for Maytag ranges
A function key on the touchpad/control panel is registering as continuously pressed. This can be caused by moisture, a worn membrane, or a faulty ribbon cable connection. Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If F0 returns, clean the touchpad surface and inspect the ribbon cable. The touchpad membrane or electronic oven control board may require replacement.
The electronic oven control (EOC) board has detected an internal fault, or the touchpad is sending erratic signals. The oven will not respond to commands. Power cycle the range by turning off the breaker for 60 seconds. If F1 returns, the control board or touchpad requires replacement. On some models, the touchpad and control board are a single integrated unit.
The oven cavity temperature has exceeded the safe maximum limit (approximately 590 degrees F in bake mode). The oven will shut down and lock the door as a safety precaution. This is typically caused by a stuck relay on the control board that keeps the heating element energized, or a shorted bake/broil element. Do not attempt to use the oven until the cause is identified and repaired.
The oven temperature sensor (RTD probe) has an open circuit, reading infinite resistance. The oven cannot regulate temperature and will not heat. The sensor is a plug-in probe located at the back wall of the oven cavity. Test the sensor with a multimeter — it should read approximately 1,080 ohms at room temperature. Replacement takes approximately 20 minutes.
The oven temperature sensor is reading near-zero resistance (shorted). The control board interprets this as an extremely low temperature and may run the heating element continuously, creating a dangerous over-temperature condition. Replace the sensor immediately. If the new sensor also reads shorted, check the wiring harness for a short to ground.
The watchdog circuit on the electronic oven control board has triggered a safety shutdown. This circuit monitors the control board processor for abnormal behavior. A power surge, software glitch, or failing component on the board can trigger this code. Power cycle the range. If F5 persists, the electronic oven control board requires replacement.
A function key in the control panel is shorted — different from F0 in that the short is at a lower level in the circuit. The oven may activate functions unexpectedly. Disconnect power immediately. The touchpad membrane or electronic oven control board requires replacement. Do not continue using the range with this code active.
The analog-to-digital converter circuit on the electronic oven control board has failed. The board cannot accurately read sensor inputs. Temperature regulation will be unreliable. The electronic oven control board requires replacement.
The oven door latch failed to engage or disengage during a self-clean cycle. The latch motor is not completing its travel. Do not force the door open if it is locked. Power cycle the range and allow 30 minutes for the latch to reset. If the door remains locked, the latch motor assembly, latch switch, or wiring requires service by a technician.
A power interruption occurred while the oven was operating. The oven has lost its cycle progress and the clock may need to be reset. Press Cancel/Off to clear the code, then reset the clock. If the oven was in self-clean mode, the door may remain locked until the oven cools and the code is cleared.
8 codes documented for Maytag wall ovens
The electronic oven control (EOC) board has detected an internal fault or the touchpad is sending erratic signals. The wall oven will not respond to commands. Power cycle by turning off the dedicated breaker for 60 seconds. If F1 returns, the control board or touchpad requires replacement.
The wall oven temperature has exceeded the safe maximum limit. The oven will shut down and lock the door as a safety precaution. A stuck relay on the control board keeping the heating element energized, or a shorted bake/broil element, is the most common cause. Do not use the oven until repaired.
The oven temperature sensor probe has an open circuit. The oven cannot regulate temperature and will not heat. The RTD sensor probe is accessible from inside the oven cavity at the rear wall. It should read approximately 1,080 ohms at room temperature. Replace if open or significantly out of range.
The oven temperature sensor is reading near-zero resistance (shorted). The control board may run the heating element continuously, creating an over-temperature hazard. Replace the sensor immediately and check the wiring harness for damage or short to ground.
The self-clean door latch mechanism is not completing its cycle. The latch motor cannot fully engage or disengage. Do not force the door open if locked. Power cycle the wall oven and allow 30 minutes for the latch to attempt to reset. The latch motor assembly, latch switch, or wiring may require service.
A function key in the control panel is shorted. The wall oven may activate functions unexpectedly. Disconnect power immediately at the breaker. The touchpad membrane or electronic oven control board requires replacement. Do not use the oven until repaired.
The analog-to-digital converter on the control board has failed. Sensor readings are unreliable and temperature regulation will be inaccurate. The electronic oven control board requires replacement.
The door lock failed to engage or disengage during a self-clean cycle. Similar to F5 but specifically triggered during the locking phase rather than the unlock phase. Power cycle and wait for the oven to cool completely. The latch assembly requires service if the code persists.
5 codes documented for Maytag cooktops
The cooktop electronic control board has detected an internal fault. One or more burner zones may not respond. Power cycle the cooktop by turning off the dedicated breaker for 60 seconds. If F1 returns, the electronic control board requires replacement.
The cooktop surface temperature has exceeded the safe limit on one or more zones. The affected zone will shut down automatically. This can occur if cookware boils dry or if the temperature limiter sensor has failed. Allow the cooktop to cool completely, then resume cooking. If the code recurs during normal use, the temperature limiter requires replacement.
A heating element relay on the control board has failed in either the open or closed position. If stuck closed, the element may stay on continuously — disconnect power immediately. If stuck open, the affected zone will not heat. The electronic control board requires replacement.
The gas valve solenoid on the cooktop is not opening correctly. The burner will not ignite even though the spark igniter is firing. The gas valve may be seized or the solenoid coil has failed. Requires professional gas appliance repair — do not attempt to service gas valves without proper training and tools.
The surface temperature sensor for one or more cooking zones has failed. On electric models, this sensor prevents the glass surface from exceeding safe temperatures. The affected zone will be disabled until the sensor is replaced.
5 codes documented for Maytag microwaves
The humidity sensor used in Sensor Cook modes is not responding or is reading out of range. Auto-sensor cooking features will be disabled, but manual cooking modes will still work. The sensor is located inside the microwave cavity. Sensor replacement is required to restore auto-cook functionality.
A key or touch zone on the control panel is stuck or shorted. The microwave may not accept input or may behave erratically. Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If F2 returns, the touchpad membrane or the control board requires replacement. On some Maytag models, the touchpad and control board are a single unit.
The turntable motor is not operating. The rotating tray will not turn, causing uneven heating. Verify that the turntable coupling and glass tray are properly seated and not obstructed. If the motor itself has failed, it is a relatively low-cost replacement part accessible from the bottom of the microwave.
The power relay controlling the magnetron circuit on the control board has failed. The microwave may run (light and turntable operate) but produce no heat, or it may not power on at all. This requires professional repair — microwave high-voltage capacitors retain lethal charge even when unplugged. Do not attempt DIY repair on the HV circuit.
A general sensor error has been detected. This can indicate a fault with the humidity sensor, temperature probe sensor, or the door sensing switch circuit. The microwave will operate in a limited mode or may not start at all. Diagnosis requires identifying which sensor is faulted. Professional service is recommended.
3 codes documented for Maytag hoods
The ventilation hood blower motor is not responding. Check for a seized fan blade due to grease buildup and verify the motor wiring harness. If the motor hums but does not spin, the motor bearings have failed and the motor assembly requires replacement.
The electronic speed controller cannot regulate the blower motor speed. The hood may only run at one speed or not at all. The speed control PCB requires replacement.
The LED lighting driver board has failed. Task lighting may flicker, dim, or not illuminate. The LED driver board can typically be replaced independently of the main PCB.
4 codes documented for Maytag ice makers
The ice maker harvest cycle did not complete within the allotted time. Ice may be stuck to the evaporator plate. Check for low water supply or a frozen water inlet tube. If the water supply is adequate, the harvest motor or the refrigerant charge may be at fault.
The freeze cycle is taking longer than expected. This may indicate a dirty condenser, high ambient temperature, a failing compressor, or low refrigerant. Clean the condenser coils and ensure adequate ventilation around the unit.
The ice maker is not receiving adequate water flow. Check that the water supply valve is fully open, inspect the water line for kinks, and verify the water filter is not clogged. Household water pressure must be at least 20 psi for proper operation.
The bin temperature sensor is reading above the safe threshold. Ice in the bin may be melting. Check that the condenser is clean and the door seal is intact. If ambient temperature is within range and the error persists, the refrigeration system requires professional diagnosis.
From our expanded knowledge base
The bin temperature sensor is reading above the safe threshold. Ice in the bin may be melting. Check that the…
The ice maker is not receiving adequate water flow. Check that the water supply valve is fully open, inspect the…
The freeze cycle is taking longer than expected. This may indicate a dirty condenser, high ambient temperature, a failing compressor,…
The ice maker harvest cycle did not complete within the allotted time. Ice may be stuck to the evaporator plate.…
The LED lighting driver board has failed. Task lighting may flicker, dim, or not illuminate. The LED driver board can…
The electronic speed controller cannot regulate the blower motor speed. The hood may only run at one speed or not…
The ventilation hood blower motor is not responding. Check for a seized fan blade due to grease buildup and verify…
A general sensor error has been detected. This can indicate a fault with the humidity sensor, temperature probe sensor, or…
The power relay controlling the magnetron circuit on the control board has failed. The microwave may run (light and turntable…
The turntable motor is not operating. The rotating tray will not turn, causing uneven heating. Verify that the turntable coupling…
A key or touch zone on the control panel is stuck or shorted. The microwave may not accept input or…
The humidity sensor used in Sensor Cook modes is not responding or is reading out of range. Auto-sensor cooking features…
The surface temperature sensor for one or more cooking zones has failed. On electric models, this sensor prevents the glass…
The gas valve solenoid on the cooktop is not opening correctly. The burner will not ignite even though the spark…
A heating element relay on the control board has failed in either the open or closed position. If stuck closed,…
The cooktop surface temperature has exceeded the safe limit on one or more zones. The affected zone will shut down…
The cooktop electronic control board has detected an internal fault. One or more burner zones may not respond. Power cycle…
The door lock failed to engage or disengage during a self-clean cycle. Similar to F5 but specifically triggered during the…
The analog-to-digital converter on the control board has failed. Sensor readings are unreliable and temperature regulation will be inaccurate. The…
A function key in the control panel is shorted. The wall oven may activate functions unexpectedly. Disconnect power immediately at…
The self-clean door latch mechanism is not completing its cycle. The latch motor cannot fully engage or disengage. Do not…
The oven temperature sensor is reading near-zero resistance (shorted). The control board may run the heating element continuously, creating an…
The oven temperature sensor probe has an open circuit. The oven cannot regulate temperature and will not heat. The RTD…
The wall oven temperature has exceeded the safe maximum limit. The oven will shut down and lock the door as…
The electronic oven control (EOC) board has detected an internal fault or the touchpad is sending erratic signals. The wall…
A power interruption occurred while the oven was operating. The oven has lost its cycle progress and the clock may…
The oven door latch failed to engage or disengage during a self-clean cycle. The latch motor is not completing its…
The analog-to-digital converter circuit on the electronic oven control board has failed. The board cannot accurately read sensor inputs. Temperature…
A function key in the control panel is shorted — different from F0 in that the short is at a…
The watchdog circuit on the electronic oven control board has triggered a safety shutdown. This circuit monitors the control board…
The oven temperature sensor is reading near-zero resistance (shorted). The control board interprets this as an extremely low temperature and…
The oven temperature sensor (RTD probe) has an open circuit, reading infinite resistance. The oven cannot regulate temperature and will…
The oven cavity temperature has exceeded the safe maximum limit (approximately 590 degrees F in bake mode). The oven will…
The electronic oven control (EOC) board has detected an internal fault, or the touchpad is sending erratic signals. The oven…
A function key on the touchpad/control panel is registering as continuously pressed. This can be caused by moisture, a worn…
The dishwasher is not detecting sufficient water in the tub to begin the wash cycle. This is similar to F8E4…
A software error or diverter disc motor fault has been detected. The diverter directs water to the upper and lower…
The dishwasher has not detected any water entering the tub. Verify the water supply valve under the sink is fully…
The water inlet valve is not operating correctly. The valve may be stuck open (causing overfill) or stuck closed (no…
The wash pump motor is not operating. The dishwasher fills with water but does not spray. A foreign object (glass…
The water temperature sensor (thermistor) is reading outside its expected range. The dishwasher cannot properly regulate water temperature for wash…
The main control board and the user interface board have lost communication. The control panel may be unresponsive or display…
The main electronic control board has detected an internal fault. The dishwasher may not respond to commands or may stop…
The drying system (heated dry element or fan-assisted drying) is not functioning properly. Dishes will remain wet after the cycle…
The dishwasher is not filling with enough water. Check that the water supply valve under the sink is fully open,…
The dishwasher cannot drain water from the tub. Clean the filter assembly at the bottom of the tub, check the…
The water temperature dropped below the minimum threshold during the active wash phase. This can result in poor cleaning performance…
The dishwasher water has not reached the required temperature within the allotted time. The heating element or NTC thermistor may…
A general communication failure between the main control board and one or more subsystem boards. This can affect temperature regulation,…
The main electronic control board has detected an internal processor or memory fault. The refrigerator may stop cooling or behave…
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